My first encounter with the ocean was on the Jersey Shore when I was three years old and I got knocked over by a wave. The ocean certainly got my attention! It wasn't frightening, it was more exhilarating.
I'm a surfer at heart. Both my parents moved to Hawaii in the 1970s, where they met and became Christians. Then they taught me and my two brothers how to love the Lord - and how to surf!
I grew up in Southern California, so there is just a part of me that is a Hollywood rocker.
Well, maybe surf one time; I think it would be fun to catch a wave just once.
The beach has always been a constant in my life.
When I was nine, I was taught to ride a surfboard in Waikiki by the beach boy Rabbit Kekai.
It's weird, I grew up in California, and I've only surfed, like, once.
I like to read. I like to spend time on the Net. I like to watch movies.
When I started, I was 18 and really into punk rock and just wanted the action. Over the years, I've gravitated towards the travel and experience around surfing and trying to relay that feeling. Going forward, I'm interested in story-driven and personality-driven themes.
For me the experience of writing is really an experience of losing control.... I think it's very much like dreaming or like surfing. You go out there and wait for a wave, and when it comes it takes you somewhere and you don't know where it'll go.
What makes Biarritz special, as far as I'm concerned, are the fantastic coastline, the beaches - such as the Cotes des Basques - and the sea.
I like to be close to water and the ocean, particularly. I love to get out and body surf. I like mountain biking, too.
As for hobbies, I don't really read or watch TV. I'm very active. I like surfing, skiing, riding bikes with my kids, and working out with my friends.
In 2008, 'Surfer's Journal' published 'The Next Wave' image with an article.
Dick Dale don't surf no more.
'Rockaway Beach' is a great song, and so is 'Listen to My Heart.'
Eventually, I want to move to Hawaii and chill forever.
People recognise me when I'm holiday on the beach.
There was one thing I loved a little bit more than surfing - and that was acting.
Our project goal was to push the boundaries of VR technology to show what a surf trip feels like from the first-person perspective. I'm excited to share this. It's pretty incredible knowing my mom can now experience riding a 20-foot wave.
Being able to surf in Tahiti and places like Brazil was unreal.
Yeah, my dream would be to work for 6 months and then have 6 months to play, just snowboarding, surfing, and going to cool places to listen and be alone and kinda chill out.
Riding is my passion, but a very close second is sun, sand, and surf.
There's a risk to everything you do. You can take off on a one-foot wave and get hurt; you can take off on a ten-foot wave and get hurt. You just don't think about it at all. You just go for it. When you kick out of a really big wave, it feels pretty damn good. You want to do it again.
'Point Break' is a movie that I and all of my friends grew up loving, watching all the time, quoting, living and being.
